__Pegs, and how to make them________________

Our sailboat kits include a multi-purpose peg that sets into the mast steps. A notch at the bottom is for catching the end of rigging line. At the top end, a hole is drilled through so that the peg serves as a fairlead.

One is shown here, being used as a fairlead for a jib sheet. The peg is set into the hull with the hole through the peg running fore and aft.

In the next example, the peg is used on a MkII as a fairlead for a mainsl'.

The peg adds a bit more friction than a wire fairlead, and it can be twisted so that the hole through it does not run fore and aft with the sailboats centre line to add even more friction.

Another use is that of a belaying pin, as an example, a length of rigging line can be set into an open mast step, and the peg is lightly pushed down part way into the hole, to firmly hold the line in place. There are different uses for this, it can make fast a preventer line, or a boom vang.

Making your own....

These are not too difficult to make, all you need is a bit of 1/4in. dowel rod and a drill with a 1/8in. bit (or smaller), and some candle wax. (A simple belaying pin, does not need a hole, and so are even easier to make.)

Set a length of dowel onto a piece of scrap wood that has a groove carved in it, this will help hold the dowel in place. Dent the end of the dowel with a small nail (or something similar) to form a pilot hole before you drill. Then cut the dowel to length, about an inch long.

Give the peg a few turns in a pencil sharpener to taper the bottom and round off the top edge. You should also seal the homemade peg with wood stain, shoe polish, tung oil, varnish, or whatever you have.

It is important to rub wax all around the bottom half of the peg surface, since they will swell when wet and get stuck into the hull. When this happens, they can be nearly impossible to push out, and are best left in place until the wood dries and shrinks.

A short length of 3/16in. dowel or bolt can be used to push them out when needed, or use a wooden golf tee that has had the pointed tip sawn off.

A simple peg without a hole is simple to craft. This one was shaped at the top end and gives you something to grip when pulling it out.
- While you're at it, why not make some plugs? Plugs can be used to fill in the mast steps that aren't being used. These can be the full thickness of the hull, or, down to a quarter inch in length. The ends can be painted or stained to match the boats surface for appearance. When used in the underside of the hull, plugs will add to a smoother flow of water increasing the sailboats speed.

A final note, not all manufacturers of wooden dowel produce a perfect one quarter inch product. More often than not, they are undersize. The cabin that comes with your kit will fit in your pocket, take it with you when you go to the building supply and use it to check the size for a good fit.

In some cases the dowel can be too large in diameter, the fix for this is to wrap sandpaper around the end and twist away until it fits slightly snug without jamming.

__Rigging with shrouds_________________

We have added two solid brass escutcheon pins to our MkII series kits.(spring'04) These are handy for many things, but here we show how they are used for rigging shrouds to a mast. The shrowds will prevent the mast from raking forward. They are not needed on the MkI version, and really aren't needed on the MkII in most cases, except for when you have large jibs and/or multiple headsails. Still, they will allow you to add tension to a head stay to keep it straight (tricky at times to achieve) in strong winds.

To rig your sailboat with shrouds:
First mark the location on the sides of the hull where you will drive the pins in. Shrouds should be led to a point about 30 deg. behind the mast they are attached to. This works out to about About 1-1/2".
The pins should be driven into the hull parallel to the deck about 1/8in. below the deck surface. Leave a tiny bit of length sticking out of the hull to tie rigging line around.
Use a pair of fine needle nose pliers to hold onto the pins as you drive them in with light hammer taps. Or use a folded over paper match to hold onto the pin length. Having a wood vice will be very helpful to hold the model steady. (Use some padding to protect the model)

The mast should be set so that the notch at the mast head runs fore and aft. (with the centerline). The shroud lines are led to the mast head in a way that both ends come out at the forward side of the mast.

Take a length of line and tie a small loop at one end.

The loop catches onto one pin. (port side) the line then runs up to the masthead, enters the notch at the top of the mast from the forward side and is then pulled back to create a bit of tension on the line.

The line is then wrapped around the masthead a full turn (maintain tension as you do this) and enters the notch again from the aft side of the mast coming out at the forward side.

The line then runs down to the other pin and, as you are looking down at the mast, wrap the line around the pin once, and carefully pull on the line until the mast stands straight up with a slight rake backwards.
Then wrap the line around the pin again few times and finish off with a hitch.

Another way is to take a bite out of the standing part and tie a loop (use a simple overhand) a few inches above the pin. (see illus. above) The line is then led down to the pin, and wrapped around a few turns. Then lead the working end up to, and through the loop, pulling down to keep the tension.
The line can then be tied off with a double hitch. The hitches can be picked apart when you need to untie.

When you need to take the model apart, tension the port side of the line(the one with the loop) enough to un- hook it from the pin.(Visit our knot page if you need some help tying knots.)

The pins can be removed by prying them out using a small screwdriver.

Shroud tips:
*You don't have to use rigging line, unwaxed dental floss will do, and it will take up less space in the masthead notch.
*Shroud lines are put in place first, then add lines for jib headstays, etc.
*For schooners, both masts don't need shrouds, just the (aft) mainsl'. Use a triatic stay to tension the fore mast. Most hobby and building supply stores sell pins if you need more. Buy solid brass escutcheons, brass plated will eventually stain your model after the brass finish wears away. (The size we supply you with are 1/2in. long 18ga.)

The amount of sail area that will be affected by shrouds can be reduced by making a spreader. (I use the term loosely here, in real sailboats spreaders are fixed to the mast)

Our spreaders do not attach to the mast, but set in front of the mast under tension. They spread the shrouds and lower the point from which the back tension originates. This improves the reach of the top part of the sail letting it fill with more wind.

You can make one using a length of 1/8in. dowel or bamboo skewer about 3in. long. One method is to saw a notch into each end of the spreader, you need a very fine blade for this, like a coping saw, or try rubbing the end along the metal serrated edge found on the box of food wrap. (It works!)

The shroud lines slip into the notches, tension and wood swelling, once it gets wet, hold it in place.
Another way, is to put a small notch into the spreaders surface near each end. With the shrouds in place (but loose) each end of the spreader gets the shroud twisted around it. once tensioned, the spreader can be "rolled" between your finger tips into position, the notch at each end holding the line in place.

___Choosing the right plastics for your sails.____________

Plastics are everywhere, and the type you use to make sails is made of polypropylene or 'poly' for short. 'Poly' means multiple, a mixture of various components that give it any number of characteristics; strength, stretch, density. Although you can craft sails using just about any type, some will work better than others.

Higher density plastics have less stretch, and are stronger when comparing thickness, the softer plastics (low density), are considered 'stronger' but that strength comes with stretch, and too much stretch is something to avoid.

Consider for a moment how a grocery bag can carry a pretty heavy load, like a twenty lb. frozen turkey. The handle part may stretch like bubble gum, but as long as the bag does not puncture, its fine.
This is an example of the strength of low density poly. The stretch qualities reduce the chance of a puncture.
This is many times more than the amount of force it would take to cause a wind knockdown on your model sailboat.

The high density plastic will carry the same weight, without all the stretch, but if there is a tear in the plastic, be prepared to chase after that turkey as it rolls down the street.

The high density stuff is easy to identify, it makes a crackling sound when you handle it, the higher the density, the more noise. It is also stiff, a reason why it is usually used in a thinner gage. Some manufacturers make their high density films with a textured surface, giving it an almost cloth appearance. The texturing gives it more flexibility, reduces the wrinkles, and the noise. By far, depending on the thickness, this is the stuff to use. Thin, low stretch, flexible.

If you make sails out common garbage bags, it will look like garbage, most do not look good at all with sunlight coming through. A garbage bag, and especially the white kitchen variety, are made with too much stretch.

If your thinking about black sails, you will have to make them from a color impregnated plastic. I have used black plastic in sails that looked fine, its just not a common color in plastic. For making multi colored, pannel sails click here.

Removing the print- Ok, so you have found a good bag that has the right density and color. Unfortunately, "Joe's Fish market" is printed across the area you want to use. Unless you want to give Joe some free advertising, you will have to get rid of the silkscreen printing ink.
The stuff to use is paint thinner (mineral spirits), soak a small amount on a paper towel or a soft cloth, spread out the plastic and rub lightly. Don't rub hard, or use too much fluid, you will distort the shape of the sail! Before you begin, inspect the plastic bag for any damage, hold it up to the light and look for pin holes and stretch marks.

With a little bit of care, a sail made from a poly bag, will last a lot longer than you would expect, I have models that were rigged three years ago, and still working fine. But the best part is that they are so easy to replace.

You can comment on this and other Fairlead articles on our message board.

I like pigs. Dogs look up to us. Cats look down on us. Pigs treat us as equals. -Winston Churchill

 home | Fairlead | sailing glossary | buy a kit here |