Model sailboats by Seadercraft contents:
'Rocker'
The Beetle
Extreme Lateen
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__The Rocker_____________________

Seeking out good new locations for sailing in is a never ending quest. Surfers look for the big waves, fishermen, a spot that guarantees a good catch, I look for sandy shoals, with plenty of room to wade. Needless to say, part of my vacation plans include beaches.

The models are easy enough to take on a vacation, I routinely stuff about six or so, in a sports bag, along with different sail types rigged onto masts, and try out the same model with other rigging.

The 'Rocker' gets its name from the city 'White Rock' not far from Vancouver, that has an excellent beach.
White Rock has been a holiday destination for decades, you can still see the occasional old cottage tucked in between the new luxury homes. With kilometres of wide sandy beaches, restaurants, art galleries and great sunsets, with a lively strip running along the oceanfront and an endless stroll of locals and tourists.

The small city was named after a huge 486-ton boulder that lies on the beach, layed to rest by ice age glaciers thousands of years ago.

Native legend has it that the rock was hurled across the Strait of Georgia by a young Indian chief. He then took his bride and moved there from Vancouver Island to make it their home.
Although not naturally pure white, the locals have painted it such, to make it more attractive, and more visible, to boaters. The beach itself, when the tide is out, can mean a quarter mile trek over the sand just to get to the water, when the tide is high, you have that much space to sail around in, in between tides there are plenty of tidal pools.
Too big to get crowded, I get about a dozen football fields of area to do my thing in.

This model features a high aspect ratio sail, and a rounded hull. Aspect ratio describes a sails length to its height

0 A sails aspect ratio is the ratio of its height to the length. A narrow but tall sail has a high aspect ratio, and a wide but shorter sail has a low aspect ratio. There are formulas, and methods you can use that give you a numerical expression of aspect ratio, lets save 'fun with numbers' for another day......

The main sail is rigged with a vang, so little power that the sail generates is lost from sail twist.

Two pegs are used as a fairleads set down in the hull, one for the jib the other for the mainsail. (You don't need a peg for the mainsl' a regular screw eye will do.)

The jib is rigged so that it does not swing more than a 'broad reach' since the boom of the jib will rise when full, and in doing so will only spill wind if let swing beyond that. The jib sheet leads up through the hole in the peg to the clew, passes through a fitting, and runs back down to the deck and is pegged in place.

0 This model was made from another models hull, a schooner that already had a rounded off hull, and I made it even more so. After a paint job, a re-worked hull, and a new sail plan, it was a new sailing animal all together.

Plastic from a red motor oil bottle provided me with colour battens and fittings and a rudder that matched the color of the hull.
The hull was ground down to its shape using a bench sander, the hull being 'rocked' carefully from one side to the other.
A little more work, the shape can be attained using a small plane, even a spoke shave, followed by rough, medium and fine sanding.

Tip: round plastic containers can be used as a roundness gage. Once you find one the right size, slice it in half, straight down each side, leaving half the bottom to keep the curve ridged. The model is held up to a light, and the round edge of the plastic is moved around on the work area, as you inspect the light shining through the two surfaces. Even if the plastic is not exactly the right size curve you have in mind, a little pressure will flatten down the flexible plastic onto the wood surface and expose any shallows or bumps.

0 This is an over all fast model, and not too complicated. The long top batten restricts sail reduction, Once underway, it slips through the waves and rides swells well.

Performance Rating:
Windward Ability- Good
Swiftness- Very Good
Manoeuvrability- Good
Lateral Resistance- Good
Sail Adjustability- Fair
Ease of Construction- Fair

__The Beetle_____________________

Back in 1920 John Beetle, a skilled Massachusetts boat builder, built for his kids a couple of small cat rigged sailboats.
Catching the eye of local yachtsmen, it wasn't long before others had placing orders for "Beetle cats" of their own. And over time, thousands were made with fleets all over the New England coast. These little cats are probably the oldest one design class in America.

A 'one class' design means that the overall design of the boat does not change. New types of materials may be introduced, such as Dacron sails, but a Beetle cat from 1940 will look the same as one made in 2000.
A one class design also means that one boat will not have an advantage over another when racing, same length, beam sail area.

It has become a tradition on Nantucket Island to rig these craft with coloured sails that make for some very colourful regattas (as seen in the painting) giving them the nick name the 'Rainbows.'

The dimensions of these boats, with a length of 12' 4" and a beam of 6'makes it a stable, compact craft for beginners and a perfect size for one or two out for a days sailing adventure.

model beetle cat Making the model....

Considering the dimensions of the Beetle cat, you can hardly describe the MkI model I made as a scale model (I would have to saw the hull in half to come even close!)
Think of it as a 'stretched Beetle' :-)

The mast is shortened to 8½ inches long and placed in the first mast step. The spar for the gaff was cut 7in. and made from a bamboo skewer. The boom (also bamboo) was cut 9in. long. Beetle cats have a large "barn door" of a rudder, its what gives them a reasonable waterline length for what would otherwise be a stubby little boat. So, the rudder on this model stretches behind to give the model a total length overall (LOA) of 13in.

I added a hank, or sleeve, to keep the leading edge of the gaff in place, with enough room for it to slide down the spar when I needed to reduce sail.

Model To attach the spar to the mast I tied a length of rigging line using a fishermans bend to both pieces.
There should be enough line between spar and mast to allow the spar to swing side to side when changeing tack, about a half inch.

I managed to find a light turquoise plastic bag for the sail keeping up with the 'Rainbow' tradition. The hull was given a couple coats of white paint (leftover 'kitchen and bath' paint) with a blue stripe along the waterline.

As with all gaff rigs, and this is an extreme gaff, occasionally when tacking downwind, the gaff will swing to one side (tack) and the boom will swing to the opposite tack. This fowling is called a 'goose wing jibe'. It is easy to correct by guiding the boat to turn (filling the sail) and with a couple of light tugs on the control line.

Overall, this is a sharp looking model and once the sail is tweaked up properly, sails well, even in very light wind. It also has a low draft due to the rudder being shallow.

To find out more about Beetle cats, I found the manufacturers website. beetlecats.com

Performance Rating: (Very Good, Good, Fair, Acceptable, Difficult)

Model Stability (no ballast)- Good
Windward Ability- Fair
Swiftness- Good
Manoeuvrability- Fair
Lateral Resistance- Good
Sail Adjustability- Fair
Ease of Construction- Fair

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__Extreeme Lateen_______________________

lateen Model Every model you design, to a degree, is an experiment, you never know for sure how well a model is going to perform until it is put to the test. With experience you can make a good guess, but that's all. This makes it all the more interesting, first the concept, then putting it together, and the final test run.

One expects both positive and negative aspects of any given sail or hull design. This one exceeded all positive expectations and failed to live up to the negative ones.

The model has a lateen rig with a difference, the leech of the sail has a deep roach supported with long flexible battens. Here we have a hybrid design, combining ancient with modern.

The main spar is made of two bamboo skewers. These can be joined in different ways using glue and line, even wire. Since the length of the yard was longer than the hull, I wanted to join the two in a way that I could break it down and take it with me on holiday without the risk of breaking the spars in transit. (the yard is a full 20in. long, the boom 11.5in.)

Looking for inspiration, I took a few dives into the garage junk pile and emerged with strip of 1/4in. clear plastic tubing left over from the fish tank. Cutting the tubing into small rings, I was able to use them as clamps, joining the skewers together.

Not only that, I was able to squeeze the line used as a halyard, in between the two surfaces of the skewers. (tied around the top spar) There was enough pressure here to keep the line in place, and with a bit of tugging, move the halyard along the length of the spars to adjust the point where the sail would hang from.

Model This is one of the largest single sails I ever made. (approx.98 sq.in.) Large sails can sometimes be a bit unwieldy at first when brisk winds generate turning forces that turn the model windward. This disappears when the boat starts to pick up speed. The lateen sail reduces problems like the one above, because about one third of the sail area sets before the mast. This moves the sails centre of effort closer to the mast, where the sail pivots, and thus, the turning radius from the centre of effort is reduced.

This aids in giving you more control of the sail due to more leverage when sheeted from the sails clew. The lateen also has a downwind advantage in that the entire sail area is put to use. On sailboat models that are sloop rigged, the jib needs to be coaxed into swinging out on the opposite tack (wing on wing) to be any use at all.

Rigging and fittings... all of the fittings that hold the rig together are made from recycled flexible plastic. Since this is such a large sail, I wanted a tighter grip than what you get with rubber.

To get a good grip on the spars, a plastic cleat should have a hole in it small enough that the spar will just squeeze into without having to use a lot of force. There are different methods to do this, you can poke a hole using a hot wire, have a collection of small drill bits, or you can simply bore a hole if you have a fine, straight tipped hobby knife.

Model Along the boom, you first run the mainsheet through the hole of a plastic fitting, then work the fitting down the length of the boom to about the centre. This is where the boom sets against the mast. The end of the line will slip down the gooseneck.

At the aft end of the boom, the sails clew and the mainsheet both slip through another fitting (first) and then it is worked over the end of the skewer.

At the forward end of the boom, a length of line is securely tied. (I recommend putting a small notch at the end of the skewer to keep the knot from slipping.) This line slips up through a fitting on the end of the spar above, that fitting, also holds the tack of the sail in place. The line becomes a 'preventer' that ties to the fairlead at the stem. It should be long enough to allow the sail to swing out to a full beam reach(but no more). It also prevents the sail from swinging around from back to front in strong winds.

line control With the preventer, in a good breeze when sailing "off" or downwind, the model literally sails itself, you scramble to keep up or let the line "power spin" off the reel.

I gave the hull's bow a scow entrance and increased the angle of the run back at the stern. (note the shaded areas in the illustration) Giving it a good planning surface.
- On both ends the "worked" surfaces turn right up to the middle of the hulls thickness measured down from the deck. This is done by drawing your working lines on the hull, placing the hull 'belly up' on a work bench and go at it with a wood plane. Then follow with some sanding and prime coat for paint.

The centreboard used is what we now provide already 'faired in' with the kit. The model preformed best with the board turned back as shown, where it balanced with the sail plan. When needed for windward, it can be lowered slightly, and a little more for a broad reach.

Overall, this is one of the fastest model boats I put together. I expected it to heel over frequently, it didn't. (Due to its speed and somewhat low centre of effort and flat hull.) I expected it to make lots of leeway due to the hull design, It didn't. I also expected it to be hard to control, it wasn't. Only thing I can think of on the negative side, is that the sail design doesn't lend itself to being reduced, but I have sailed it in some pretty hard wind without much problem.

Performance Rating: Very Good, Good, Fair, Acceptable, Difficult.
Stability (no ballast)- Good
Windward Ability- Very Good
Swiftness- Very Good
Manoeuvrability- Good
Lateral Resistance- Good
Sail Adjustability- Fair
Ease of Construction- Fair

Model Sailboat