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The chasse-maree home |Fairlead | sailing glossary |buy a kit here
The Chase_______________________ The two French words that combine to make the phrase 'chasse-marée' (very loosely translated),
chasser (to drive quickly, chase) and ‘une marée’ that has several associated meanings
(the tide, fresh fish landed at a high tide, the guy selling the fish, the cart used by the guy
selling the fish also the fishing boat...)
Smuggling has been around as long as taxes, and duties.
Smuggling wool, out of Britain to Europe was common since medieval times, underground trade
networks had become well established, in some coastal communities, it was the main source of
income. As taxes and duties would change on certain goods, and no longer profitable, the
smugglers network would switch to other items.
The illegal trade across England's coast grew in the 18th century, a result of increased taxes
and duties, imposed to help pay for wars, often, ironically, with France.
For the fishermen the temptation of making a couple of bucks on the side, after all, its always
been a seasonal trade, tempted many to haul the occasional load of bottles rather than fish,
profits were a matter of dashing across the English Cannel.
For the merchant of spirits, the temptation of saving a couple of bucks with tax free cognac,
and brandy was there to supply the thirsty gentry.
Note: these were the days when it was considered ‘dashing’ to be drunk ..
(which also explains a lot of military blunders).
To smugglers who put it all together, it was a way of life.
Losing revenue, the Crown had to take action. When equally matched, the cutter would have the advantage on a windward chase, with its jibs
cutting into the wind. The lugs could have the advantage running downwind or on a broad reach, that’s what lug rigs
are good at..
Of course, some smuggling ships were big, and some well armed, and so the hunter would
become the hunted. ________________________________________
I built this model using a MkII-D hull, painted a dark green hull and clear varnished deck.
It’s a two mast type chasse-marée. The forward mast is stepped way up front at the bow where
there is no mast step, so I decided to just drill one there.
To add a mast step you need a good, 1/4 inch drill bit, preferably one that has a
brad tip. The brad tip will give you more accuracy and a cleaner hole.
You should also have a piece of scrap wood underneath the model so that when the bit comes out
of the other side of your work it goes right into the scrap, this will give you a smooth exit
hole. A strip of masking tape firmly pressed onto the bottom of the hull where the drill bit
will exit will also help. A drill press should be used, otherwise the mast will probably not sit
(vertically) straight up when you push the mast in place.
The masts are 12-1/2 inches in length, the spars are 1/8 inch dowel, 8 inch long for the
booms, 6 inches up top. Each spar requires three fittings, or line clamps, to hold the rigging
lines in place
You will need to make yourself a supply, find some flexible plastic (cut some from a plastic
jug with a flat side) if you have used up what was supplied with your kit, then drill a series
of holes with a 1/8 inch drill bit. Drill the holes in a straight line. The soft flexible
plastic is best cut by scoring the surface (use a metal ruler) folding it over, then slicing
down the crease. (This is just like cutting drywall, only on a micro scale.) Cut the plastic
again so that you have a strip with holes (Just like what comes with your kit) and slice and
dice the parts you need.
The raked main made the lug sail easier to completely change tack (with both spars to the
same side of the mast). The rake also allowed the lug sail to fill with wind without having to
go all the way without losing too much efficiency.
Note: The two masted chasse-marre would not have a boom on the fore sail, it would be
‘free footed’ with the sail sheeted to cleats along the rail. This method does not work with
our models, so a boom is used.
Note: these lugs are rigged with the luff close to the mast, this gives the best windward
ability and the most sail area exposed when running downwind ‘wing on wing’. They can be
easily adjusted to sit with the luff more forward by sliding the rigging clamps aft, but at
least two thirds of the sail area should be aft of the mast.
It’s a stable model, the sails don’t reach too high. The sails can be reduced, with some
clips, but just allowing the sails to spill wind will save ya when a big puff comes along.
The sails can easily be adjusted and set up. Performance Rating ... _________________________________________________
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