Model sailboats by Seadercraft contents:
The chasse-maree
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The Chase_______________________

The two French words that combine to make the phrase 'chasse-marée' (very loosely translated), chasser (to drive quickly, chase) and ‘une marée’ that has several associated meanings (the tide, fresh fish landed at a high tide, the guy selling the fish, the cart used by the guy selling the fish also the fishing boat...)

Model When speaking of the sailboat, the chasse-marée is a lug-rigged coastal boat used to quickly haul fish (purchased from the fishermen) to market ports along the Brittany coast (18th century). Size varies, some two masted some three, The main mast (or the mizzen, in the case of three masted boats) was very raked.

Smuggling has been around as long as taxes, and duties.

Smuggling wool, out of Britain to Europe was common since medieval times, underground trade networks had become well established, in some coastal communities, it was the main source of income. As taxes and duties would change on certain goods, and no longer profitable, the smugglers network would switch to other items. The illegal trade across England's coast grew in the 18th century, a result of increased taxes and duties, imposed to help pay for wars, often, ironically, with France.

For the fishermen the temptation of making a couple of bucks on the side, after all, its always been a seasonal trade, tempted many to haul the occasional load of bottles rather than fish, profits were a matter of dashing across the English Cannel.

For the merchant of spirits, the temptation of saving a couple of bucks with tax free cognac, and brandy was there to supply the thirsty gentry.

Note: these were the days when it was considered ‘dashing’ to be drunk .. (which also explains a lot of military blunders).

To smugglers who put it all together, it was a way of life.

Losing revenue, the Crown had to take action.
Enter the ‘Kings Cutters’. The English fleet in charge of patrolling the coast. The swift, gaff-rigged, two headed, cutters would have a go at the lug-rigged smuggler.

When equally matched, the cutter would have the advantage on a windward chase, with its jibs cutting into the wind.

The lugs could have the advantage running downwind or on a broad reach, that’s what lug rigs are good at..

Of course, some smuggling ships were big, and some well armed, and so the hunter would become the hunted.
On shore, huge gangs would unload their goods, while a small handful of officials could do nothing but watch (at a safe distance).

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I built this model using a MkII-D hull, painted a dark green hull and clear varnished deck. It’s a two mast type chasse-marée. The forward mast is stepped way up front at the bow where there is no mast step, so I decided to just drill one there.

Model

To add a mast step you need a good, 1/4 inch drill bit, preferably one that has a brad tip. The brad tip will give you more accuracy and a cleaner hole.

You should also have a piece of scrap wood underneath the model so that when the bit comes out of the other side of your work it goes right into the scrap, this will give you a smooth exit hole. A strip of masking tape firmly pressed onto the bottom of the hull where the drill bit will exit will also help. A drill press should be used, otherwise the mast will probably not sit (vertically) straight up when you push the mast in place.

The masts are 12-1/2 inches in length, the spars are 1/8 inch dowel, 8 inch long for the booms, 6 inches up top. Each spar requires three fittings, or line clamps, to hold the rigging lines in place

You will need to make yourself a supply, find some flexible plastic (cut some from a plastic jug with a flat side) if you have used up what was supplied with your kit, then drill a series of holes with a 1/8 inch drill bit. Drill the holes in a straight line. The soft flexible plastic is best cut by scoring the surface (use a metal ruler) folding it over, then slicing down the crease. (This is just like cutting drywall, only on a micro scale.) Cut the plastic again so that you have a strip with holes (Just like what comes with your kit) and slice and dice the parts you need.

Model The main sail is stepped into the cabin, the step is drilled into the cabin at an angle that will give you the rake, I used a 70 degree angle. The cabin is made from scrap 1 x 4 cedar. I rounded the cabin roof, (no historical reason).

The raked main made the lug sail easier to completely change tack (with both spars to the same side of the mast). The rake also allowed the lug sail to fill with wind without having to go all the way without losing too much efficiency.

Note: The two masted chasse-marre would not have a boom on the fore sail, it would be ‘free footed’ with the sail sheeted to cleats along the rail. This method does not work with our models, so a boom is used.

Model Both sails were made of thin vinyl table cover, a light beige color that looks like old canvas. The tack and the head corner of the sail should be bolstered with reinforced packaging tape since there is a lot of strain on the luff edge of the sail. At the peak and tack of the sails a little tab will do.

Note: these lugs are rigged with the luff close to the mast, this gives the best windward ability and the most sail area exposed when running downwind ‘wing on wing’. They can be easily adjusted to sit with the luff more forward by sliding the rigging clamps aft, but at least two thirds of the sail area should be aft of the mast.

It’s a stable model, the sails don’t reach too high. The sails can be reduced, with some clips, but just allowing the sails to spill wind will save ya when a big puff comes along. The sails can easily be adjusted and set up.
It manoeuvres well, I use a peg set in the last mast step to belay the sheets when going windward any distance. The drilling of the extra mast step, the custom cabin, and the extra fittings were not difficult, a bit time consuming.

Performance Rating ...
Stability...Good
Sail adjustability....Fair
Swiftness...Good
Manoeuvres...Good
Windward ability...Fair
Ease of construction...Fair

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